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Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend, by Frosty Hesson
PDF Ebook Making Mavericks: The Memoir of a Surfing Legend, by Frosty Hesson
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When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship. Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the upcoming film Chasing Mavericks.
In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.”
Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.
- Sales Rank: #30263 in Books
- Published on: 2012-10-26
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.25" h x 5.50" w x 5.50" l, .70 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 320 pages
Most helpful customer reviews
15 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
Awesome Book!
By jazmin.cubilla
This book is about Frosty Hesson's life, but more than that, it's also about how to become a better athlete... I really enjoyed the parts when he coached Jay... It was very interesting when Frosty talked about Mavericks, how it looked, sounded, and how it could pull you under the water for minutes at a time... There were also some great tips on how to better your performance in whatever sport you enjoy.
There were some sad parts as well...
It was also very fun to learn about how Frosty first started surfing. It was a very AWESOME book!! Read it!!
9 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
Great story, great teacher
By Michael
I'm biased because I have the good fortune to personally know Frosty--in the water and out. But I highly recommend the book because its lessons and insights are powerful and apply to so many moments in life. Bravo!
7 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Great read!!
By Amazon Customer
Caught this movie by accident. Didn' think it would be any good because of my past experiences with inspirational movie. But the casting of Butler was enough to sparked my interest. After 5 minutes into this movie, I was hooked. Butler's portrayal of Frosty reminded me of Star Wars' Obi Wan Kinobi. The teacher/student relationship remind me of Luke Skywalker and Obi. LOL.
I always wanted to surf but was discouraged by bad experiences with surfer dudes who take up a job teaching newcomers how to surf. They just kind of go throu the motion but not really give a damn if the students get it or not.
I bought Frosty's book looking for insight into the mind of an old master surfer. How he sees surfing and life. I was not dissappointed. Now I will suit up and go out there to surf again. With youtube, I got all the tips I need to start surfing again w/o paying these surfer dudes. Come to think of it, surfing can't be taught. You have to just go out there and figured it out by trials and errors.
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